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Another item I've been sweating about is building the down pipe from the turbo. The space and dimensions of where the down pipe goes are changing every time I move or tilt the engine. Plus I needed to figure out how to build an adapter and flange somehow to match up with the existing outlet on the turbo. In my head I had some lathe time, buying parts with unknown results, doing a whole bunch of geometry math with piecuts, etc. When I was looking for gaskets for the turbo, I ran across this adapter for $139 that saved me probably 10 hours of screwing around. It gives me 1/2" more space to work with, and all I need to do is bolt it in place. (oh and build the down pipe).
Here's the turbo with the stock exit:
And here's the new downpipe flange to 2.5" V-Band: Another thing to notice here is that I moved the wastegate actuator over on the scroll. I tried to make a little plate so I wouldn't have to drill into the aluminum, but it was less hassle to just grind off a flat spot, drill and tap two holes and be done. That alone was 2 days work. One day of head scratching and going to buy the right tap, another to actually do it.
This step I've been looking forward to. But it did take about 5 hours. Mostly because someone accidentally plugged the 110v bandsaw into 230v and smoked the motor. Buy a new motor, install it, and set it up for 4.5 degrees for my pie cut downpipe. This is all stainless 304. On the right is what it looked like all welded up. I think the Brits call this lobster tailing. I can see why.
Here's why I had to make a pie cut downpipe. The 45 and 90 degree elbows that I get just don't turn tight enough.
And here's where it goes: This is a weird photo angle from straight above the turbo. What you're looking at is the tight routing that I need to route exhaust out of the back of the turbo that points straight at the firewall. A combination of the machined turbo flange and the pie cut downpipe makes this routing look easy. There is a turbo oil supply line just floating there weirdly. I need to somehow route that to the center section of the turbo, in this pic it's covered with electrical tape.
[Update: November 17, 2017]
Downpipe finished. I ordered a turbo blanket and some exhaust wrap for the downpipe so these pics might be the only evidence of all my welding and polishing efforts. Oh well.
I need more V-clamp weld on parts, so while I wait for parts to arrive, I'm moving onto the intake. I made this adapter for the intake, but decided that I have enough room for a long sweep 90* elbow in stainless, so I'm going to pull it apart and change it.
That's better. I'm only an armchair engineer on fluid dynamics, but I know 90* turns produce a lot of resistance and turbulence. The smoother the better.
I feel like I'm actually getting somewhere.
Bought a 850 CCA Battery, made a battery box:
I was originally planning on two batteries, but I think I only need one. This side is closer to all the electrical and the starter.
I thought I could get away with a cheap $29 PS reservoir from ebay, but I don't like it. Something custom will take it's place soon. Also, Once I get more experience welding aluminum, I'm going to delete the 45 to 45 boot on the air filter intake. I also plan on putting the air filter in a box and making another hole in the front wall for cold air intake, but we'll see.
Finally got all my driveline angles right and welded up the perches on my 1996 Isuzu Rodeo D44 rear axle. They are flipped and moved outboard 2".
Inserted my shiny new rear driveline. work angles ended up being 2.4*. Right in the prescribed window of 1-3*.
Didn't like the cheapo PS reservoir I got so I made one:
Cut a nut in half and bored out some all-thread. Turned the hex off the other half of the nut and used it for the bung.
Update: Dec. 5 2017
Got the radiator mounted up and found some hose in my pile of parts that works.
I made a cradle for the bottom and bolted it to the core support. I just made this top part. I didn't know if it was going to work. My press brake is not set up for small stuff like this, but with a little hand bending and vice work I think it came out OK. I figured this will be the first thing that one sees when the hood pops open and it will keep the cool air going towards the Radiators. I'm going to dress it up a little with some button head allens on the pan and some std allens on the radiator.
Made some headway on the fuel tank. Drew up some plans off my measurements. I just went for the biggest tank that would fit the space. 30 gallons will be plenty.
Ended up building a practice tank in 14g, and burnt through a couple spots welding it together. Started over in 12g, purged the tank with Argon and went carefully welding it all up. Its really fun, I've wanted to build an aux tank for my Duramax for a long time (26g main tank, E at 20g), and this is the catalyst that I need to make that happen.
Just picked up my new wheels and tires for the Jeep this morning.
My original plan was to have two sets of tires. One originals that the hubcaps would fit, then a set of bigger tires with some grip in the snow. The originals are 15 x 6. Once I found these black 15 x 8 wheels on sale for $29 ea and figured out that the backspacing was perfect and the hubcaps will fit on them, I was done. Now all I have to do is remove the hubcaps and I'll have a totally different look. Those are BFG AT KO2 in 31 x 10.5 R15. I think they look great.
Its hard to figure out what looks right, what will fit, and which way to go when you have axles from a Rodeo and a 77 Waggy. I've looked at the pics of this build about 20 times and chose the same tire size he did. If mine can look half this sweet, I'll be stoked.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1509-a-modern-1976-jeep-wagoneer-sleeper/
I'm going to push to have this thing rolling coal by Xmas.
Update: Dec. 7, 2017
First test fit up of the fuel tank. Probably should have test fit it before I got this far, but luckily it's fitting damn well. I'm glad I didn't go any smaller or bigger.
Should be able to click on a pic for larger version.
If I get 25 mpg with a 30 gallon tank, I'll have an absolute range of 750 miles!
Update: December 13, 2017
This is the inside quarter panel on the driver's side between the back wheel and the bumper. Someone in the past filled the cavity with spray foam, then coated the remaining metal with brush on paint. I just couldn't see past it to keep working on the diesel swap. This has taken me a week to sit there and stare at it and devise a plan of attack. I don't have much experience with body work, and rust scares me. Mostly because I don't know how to properly deal with it.
First step was to cut out the cancer without ruining the good (thin) metal parts. This part is spot welded in, so I tried to drill out the spot welds, but it involved use of hammers, flat screwdrivers, chisels, grinders, files, and a lot of crap in my face.
First I made a CAD template and transferred it to some 14g sheet. Added tabs for bending and did as many cuts as I could with the shear.
I used a chop blade to cut out the little tabs, and scored the bend lines to make vice/hammer bends easier.
I know that rivets and sealant are not normal methods to do bodywork, but I'm not encumbered by traditional body shop training (or any automotive repair training at all) so I choose to pick my own path for restoration. This surrounding metal is very thin, I don't want to ruin the paint, nobody will ever see it, rivets are much like spot welds in function, and yes, that's more stainless. I have a never-ending supply of scrap and I figure it will last longer than mild.
December 19, 2017:
Finished product. Now I can move onto installing the fuel tank. I don't think anyone is going to see this work unless they're laying on the ground under the rig.
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